Day 1: Ardley Island

11.30 AM: Lunch is served buffet-style in the dining room, which is right down the hall from our room (score). After lunch, we set off for another landing to see Gentoo penguins on Ardley Island, where there isn’t much (any, actually) snow.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Christmas Eve lunch Mm, delicious.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island Surprisingly large amount of green going on behind me

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island Gentoo penguins cover most of the island. And to think I was ever worried about a lack of penguin sightings.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island More gentoo penguins and a crabeater seal in the distance.

Crabeater seal on Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island “What u lookin at.”

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island Poor penguin :(

We learn two things from our first experience with penguins:

  1. They’re just as cute as I’ve always imagined.
  2. Guano smells like crap, literally. Unfortunately, my backpack continues to carry the scent of guano even when we’re back on the ship.

Additionally, the crew teaches us the proper way to walk in a single-file line when on-shore (I feel like I’m in elementary school again), so as not to disturb/destroy the wildlife.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island All the smart penguins are running away from us.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island Daniel anchoring the Zodiac to start taking us back to the ship (you can see the emergency chests in front of us).

4.00 PM: The first of many lectures aboard the Ocean Nova. Miguel teaches us about the many different penguins of the Antarctic. Unfortunately, we won’t be seeing any emperor or king penguins, as they live way inland, but we’ll still get to see a nice variety of smaller penguins on our journey.

7.30 PM: First dinner on board! Very festive, like lunch, since it’s Christmas Eve.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Christmas Eve Christmas Eve dinner!

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Christmas Eve Last minute dinner preparations.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Christmas Eve First of many dishes.

Christmas Eve dinner on the Ocean Nova

Day 1: Christmas Eve Mom and Dad in their festive outfits at dinner

The ship begins its travel through the Bransfield Straight, which has some… wavy waters, to put it mildly. Noticed during dinner that one by one, people were disappearing to their rooms. Eventually departed after the main course. Note to self: When one of the excursion leaders “suggests” that people take motion sickness medication… it’s probably best to take heed. Thank god we flew to Antarctica instead of crossing the Drake Passage, or the Drake Shake.

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Day 1: Frei Station

2.45 AM: Wake up, do some last minute packing to ensure that I stay under the 20kg weight limit.

3.45 AM: Groggily meet up in the lobby with the other guests. Normal hotel guests are probably wondering why so many people are awake at 3 in the morning. But hey, there’s no better way to motivate a group of people to be up at such an ungodly hour than the threat of not being able to fly out to Antarctica for another 24+ hours due to weather. (One of the downsides of flying is the dependency on weather conditions, which we’ll become familiar with at the end of our trip).

Midnight departure from Punta Arenas

Day 1: Early Departure Same view down the street, just 12 hours later.

So voila, 60 people up and ready to go at 3:45 in the morning! The hotel provides us with some boxed juices, crackers, and a ham & cheese sandwich for breakfast to-go, to sustain us at the airport.

Midnight departure from Punta Arenas

Day 1: Early Departure Guests milling about in the hotel lobby.

Midnight departure from Punta Arenas

Day 1: Early Departure Getting ready to board the buses to the airport.

4.30 AM: Head over to the airport, spend about 15 to 20 minutes to get all our boarding passes. It’s not too bad of a wait, considering it’s Christmas Eve morning and there are a ton of people here aiming to travel home in time for Christmas. I accidentally cut in front of a guy for security, but he was very nice about. Quite admirable, considering how stressed people usually get during holiday traveling.

6.00 AM: After waiting for the big LAN flights to clear, we finally board our plane. It’s surprisingly comfortable, just like any other commercial airline (well, probably even more comfortable, considering seats were 2×2). I had definitely been expecting the back-up Hercules plane, after reading up on some others’ Antarctic flights.

Midnight departure from Punta Arenas

Day 1: Early Departure Finally boarding our plane (DAP charter flight)!

8.00 AM: Wheels down at Frei Station! Disembark into the crisp Antarctic air – which is actually fairly warm, as it’s only 32 degrees F. It feels surreal that we’re actually in Antarctica. As we walk to the main station for a briefing, we pass the returning group and wave at them, as they bid us a good trip.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Wheels down at the Presidente Eduardo Frei Montalva Station (Chile) on King George Island, Antarctica.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Obligatory family photo in front of the plane.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station It is never difficult to figure out which country’s research base you’re on.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station The group before us, bidding us a good trip before they head back to the mainland.

Pit stop at one of the station buildings for refreshments and bathrooms – naturally, the women’s bathroom line trumps all.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Walking along the runway (which is really just a gravel pathway) to get to the main buildings.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Almost Martian-like landscape.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station More rusty machinery.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Colorful research & residence buildings.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station

Next, we get our first taste of Zodiac-ing to our ship, the Ocean Nova. Upon arrival, we get more refreshments and a briefing, although the latter is interrupted by a humpback whale sighting.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Walking down towards the shore.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Very first penguin sighting – everyone excitedly snaps pictures.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Boarding the zodiacs to head to our ship.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station The Ocean Nova is visible in the distance.

We all haul ass and gear up, jumping into Zodiacs to chase after the whales. We manage to get a bit closer, but no majestic arcs for us. Of the 60 people in our group, there are at least 30 equipped with DSLRs, and many others with one of the newer micro four-thirds cameras. Makes sense though – you’re only going to get one chance to shoot photographs in the Antarctic, unless you’re a researcher or lucky enough to come back for a 2nd or 3rd round.

Humpback whale in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station You can barely make out the dorsal fin, about 1/3 from the left side of the photo.

Humpback whale in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Another shot, way in the distance. It almost looks like a rock, except it’s curved and pointy.
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