Day 4: Neko Harbor & Gabriel Gonzalez Videla Research Base

1:30 PM: Our second landing of the day was at an active Chilean research base, the Presidente Gabriel Gonzalez Videla station. Though the base looks like it’s situated on a tiny island (filled with penguins and guano, no less), it is actually part of the main continent. In the winter, when the high tides recede, you can see that it’s connected to the mainland. Though we didn’t converse with the researchers much, we did pillage the gift shop and get our passports stamped.

Gabriel Gonzalez Videla Research Base

Gabriel Gonzalez Videla Research Base

Gabriel Gonzalez Videla Research Base

Gabriel Gonzalez Videla Research Base

3:00 PM: Not long after, we had our third landing of the day at Neko Harbor. The weather was pretty much perfect, and the main attraction at this stop was a hike up to the top of the mountain where you were rewarded with a sweeping view of the harbour below. Trekking through snow was a great workout – which made me feel better about that second helping of dessert at lunch :) The wind picked up towards the summmit, but the views were well worth the struggle.

Neko Harbour

Neko Harbour

Neko Harbour

Neko Harbour

6:30 PM: Back on the ship, we had our daily recap with the crew. This time, we learned a bit more about Antarctica territory claims from Adrian and also about seals from Miguel.

Side note: At this point, I noted that it was crazy that we only had two full days left on the trip, and wished that it were longer. Famous last words!

7:30 PM: Dinner time as usual, although there was a special surprise for us today. The cruise staff came out to sing happy birthday to my dad, with a guitar accompanist and all! They also baked a special strawberry mousse cake to celebrate, which was a sweet touch.

Neko Harbour

10:00 PM: After uploading photos into the group’s photo competition collective, I try to head to bed. We’re passing through the strait again, which means rolling waves – I end up staying awake until 3AM, when the sea starts calming down.

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Day 3: Dorian Bay

10.30 AM: Once again, there were many gentoo penguins, but we were able to get a closer look at them. Dorian Bay was definitely the most pristine backdrop we’ve visited so far, with the ships in the calm bay and all the surrounding snowcaps and hills. The weather was mild, also – I actually worked up a sweat when all bundled up.

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Andre exploring and laying out the safe paths for us

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Cloudy shot of me staking my Antarctic claim

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Nesting gentoo penguins near an old antennae

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Dirty penguin waddling to take a bath in the ocean

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Tired penguin is tired

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Clean penguins waddling on the penguin highway, back to the nests

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay A pair of albatross, hanging out near the penguins

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Nesting penguins be nesting

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Cake-like glacier across the bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay How miniature we look against the backdrop of untouched mountains

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay One of the Zodiacs heading back early to the ship

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay And taking a little tour of the icebergs

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay And back to the ship we go

11.30 AM: Back to the ship, just in time for lunch. We sat with Adrian and Vladimir, who told us more about their experience with Antarctica and clarified everyone’s role on the expedition team. Although Adrian (Professor Adrian) studied Antarctica history for years, this was his first time visiting the continent. It must definitely be worth it to go as part of an expedition crew rather than copping out and joining a tourist group. Vladimir, on the other hand, has been working the longest in the field with 13 years of Antarctic journeying.

We hear that we’re soon going to attempt to cross the Lemaire Channel, which is also known as “Kodak Gap” for its sweeping, scenic views.

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Day 1: Frei Station

2.45 AM: Wake up, do some last minute packing to ensure that I stay under the 20kg weight limit.

3.45 AM: Groggily meet up in the lobby with the other guests. Normal hotel guests are probably wondering why so many people are awake at 3 in the morning. But hey, there’s no better way to motivate a group of people to be up at such an ungodly hour than the threat of not being able to fly out to Antarctica for another 24+ hours due to weather. (One of the downsides of flying is the dependency on weather conditions, which we’ll become familiar with at the end of our trip).

Midnight departure from Punta Arenas

Day 1: Early Departure Same view down the street, just 12 hours later.

So voila, 60 people up and ready to go at 3:45 in the morning! The hotel provides us with some boxed juices, crackers, and a ham & cheese sandwich for breakfast to-go, to sustain us at the airport.

Midnight departure from Punta Arenas

Day 1: Early Departure Guests milling about in the hotel lobby.

Midnight departure from Punta Arenas

Day 1: Early Departure Getting ready to board the buses to the airport.

4.30 AM: Head over to the airport, spend about 15 to 20 minutes to get all our boarding passes. It’s not too bad of a wait, considering it’s Christmas Eve morning and there are a ton of people here aiming to travel home in time for Christmas. I accidentally cut in front of a guy for security, but he was very nice about. Quite admirable, considering how stressed people usually get during holiday traveling.

6.00 AM: After waiting for the big LAN flights to clear, we finally board our plane. It’s surprisingly comfortable, just like any other commercial airline (well, probably even more comfortable, considering seats were 2×2). I had definitely been expecting the back-up Hercules plane, after reading up on some others’ Antarctic flights.

Midnight departure from Punta Arenas

Day 1: Early Departure Finally boarding our plane (DAP charter flight)!

8.00 AM: Wheels down at Frei Station! Disembark into the crisp Antarctic air – which is actually fairly warm, as it’s only 32 degrees F. It feels surreal that we’re actually in Antarctica. As we walk to the main station for a briefing, we pass the returning group and wave at them, as they bid us a good trip.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Wheels down at the Presidente Eduardo Frei Montalva Station (Chile) on King George Island, Antarctica.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Obligatory family photo in front of the plane.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station It is never difficult to figure out which country’s research base you’re on.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station The group before us, bidding us a good trip before they head back to the mainland.

Pit stop at one of the station buildings for refreshments and bathrooms – naturally, the women’s bathroom line trumps all.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Walking along the runway (which is really just a gravel pathway) to get to the main buildings.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Almost Martian-like landscape.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station More rusty machinery.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Colorful research & residence buildings.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station

Next, we get our first taste of Zodiac-ing to our ship, the Ocean Nova. Upon arrival, we get more refreshments and a briefing, although the latter is interrupted by a humpback whale sighting.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Walking down towards the shore.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Very first penguin sighting – everyone excitedly snaps pictures.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Boarding the zodiacs to head to our ship.

Arriving at Frei Station in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station The Ocean Nova is visible in the distance.

We all haul ass and gear up, jumping into Zodiacs to chase after the whales. We manage to get a bit closer, but no majestic arcs for us. Of the 60 people in our group, there are at least 30 equipped with DSLRs, and many others with one of the newer micro four-thirds cameras. Makes sense though – you’re only going to get one chance to shoot photographs in the Antarctic, unless you’re a researcher or lucky enough to come back for a 2nd or 3rd round.

Humpback whale in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station You can barely make out the dorsal fin, about 1/3 from the left side of the photo.

Humpback whale in Antarctica

Day 1: Frei Station Another shot, way in the distance. It almost looks like a rock, except it’s curved and pointy.
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