Day 5: Half Moon Island

3:30 PM: Potentially the last landing of our trip at Half Moon Island. This time, we get to see more chin strap penguins and even one lone macaroni penguin. Not sure whether or not he’s lost, or just likes hanging out by himself. On my way down from the viewpoint, one of the rocks I grab onto for stability has guano on it. Unwittingly, I wipe my forehead with my hand afterwards and end up with a face and hair full of guano. Sigh, it was bound to happen at some point.

We follow behind one of the guides who creates a path for us (we have to be careful not to step on endangered moss) to another viewpoint. Expecting a 10 minute detour, we end up on an hour-long excursion to the other side of the island, where we find two crabeater seals resting on the beach. Alex, our guide, tells us more about the variations of rocks on the island and about how half the island was likely underwater at some point, as evidenced by the smooth, round rocks in certain patches. We also find some of the rare moss that only grows 1mm per year, which is why it is forbidden to step on it.

Across the water is Livingston Island, which is beautiful – all covered in white and untouched. The segment we face also has a constant shroud of fog – this happens year round, possibly due to the Drake Passage on the other side of the island.

Alex also touches upon the different views of tourism to Antarctica – some research stations will always say “no” when tourist ships ask for a landing. One such station is the Spanish one, which never allows non-research related landings. Most other stations oscillate between yes and no, depending on their own schedules and whether or not they need to do work out on the land.

6:45 PM: Again, we have our daily recap along with a few end-of-trip treats. The Doctor presented a slideshow of the events of the other three Zodiacs earlier that day in the ice floes. After one zodiac got stuck in the ice, a second tried to rescue it… only to get stuck itself. When the ship attempted to tow both zodiacs, it became stuck in the ice as well. Eventually, the zodiacs pushed the ship out of the floes and all was well.

7:30 PM: Last dinner on the boat! Cake is served and toasts are made, both to us and to the ship’s wonderful team and expedition crew.

Continue Reading

Day 3: Lemaire Channel & Port Charcot

1:00 PM: We attempt to cross the Lemaire Channel, also known as Kodak Valley for its photogenic nature, but alas, there is too much ice blocking the way. Strong northern winds are blowing all the ice floats into the channel, so it’s all filled up for now.

3:00 PM: After turning around, we set out to Port Charcot instead, where we try to get good shots of seals on the icebergs and floats. There’s a lot of ice floating around in the company of some truly majestic iceberg structures.

We also have a true Antarctica “experience” by getting stuck in a sea of ice floats. In an attempt to get closer to a crabeater seal, we move our Zodiac through some of the ice. While the clear path from our boat stays open for about 5 minutes, ice debris quickly fills in after that. At this point, there’s not much to worry about because we’re only 20 feet in from the edge of open water. After lingering for a few more moments, more ice has filled in behind us and we’re now 40 – 50 feet away from open water.

Sensing that it’s a good time to exit, we attempt to use a small iceberg in front of our zodiac to help pave the way and push debris out of the way. This method works for about 10 feet, before some ice jams up the motor. Miguel, our fearless Zodiac driver, tries to dislodge the ice with an oar. When that fails, he places both feet in the water to push out the ice. We boat passengers also move toward one side and start jumping up and down in an attempt to help dislodge the ice. Eventually, we have success and we’re on our merry way again.

However, we do still need to make our way through more ice to make it back to the ship – and we see that most of the paths are blocked by at least a few large chunks of ice. At this point, we hear someone on the walkie saying “Don’t go near the ice”. Whoops, a bit late for that. One of the other Zodiacs tries to help pave a path to us, but to no avail. We haven’t panicked yet – the worst case scenario is that we have to get towed by the ship. Vlad, in another Zodiac, points out a clearing behind us and ten minutes of navigating later, we’re free!

We find out later that three other Zodiacs had to get towed back by the ship before us, so we feel a little better about our adventure in Port Charcot.

6:30 PM: After a nice, hot shower after our hours-long adventure, Andrew presented a lecture on climate change, global warming and global cooling, which was quite informative.

7:30 PM: A surprise for tonight – a BBQ up on deck 5 outside with lots of great comfort food like ribs, chicken and baked potatoes!

Continue Reading

Day 2: Cierva Cove Christmas

6.45 AM: Wake up for an early landing, feeling much better than the night before. Blearily bundle up and head out to the plank area while maintaining a hangover-like haze. Notice that only about 35 people in our group make it up this morning (all landings are technically optional). The blast of cold air from the plank opening is definitely refreshing.

8.00 AM: First zodiac out to Mikkelson Harbor, which is covered in snow and has a sizable population of penguins and seals. Big, fat snowflakes are falling – kind of a tough standard to beat – first snow in Antarctica, and my first time walking on real snow (I know, I’ve been deprived). Despite the fact that snowflakes sting like mad when they’re flying into your face at 30 mph, I still haven’t become disenchanted yet. Take only a few pictures, since my camera is completely unprotected from the elements. Definitely starting to look more like an expedition in the photos, with everyone geared up, little flags marking safe zones, and stormy grey clouds as the backdrop.

Penguins at Mikkelson Harbor

Day 2: Mikkelson Harbor The only non-soggy shot I took on this landing. The big, fat snowflakes quickly turned into big, fat raindrops. No bueno for my unprotected camera.

On board the Ocean Nova

Day 2: Mikkelson Harbor Soggy me checking to make sure my camera hasn’t died. Steam radiators = awesome for quickly drying gloves and scarves.

On board the Ocean Nova

Day 2: Mikkelson Harbor Mom and I had the handicap room, which meant we scored an extra large bathroom.

On board the Ocean Nova

Day 2: Mikkelson Harbor Hanging up our pants, jackets and life jackets to dry.

9.30 AM: Quick brunch – don’t want to eat too much. Goal = not gaining 20 lbs from this trip.

11.30 AM: Lecture about… something. Okay, yeah this was a useful log.

1.00 PM: Zodiac cruising around Cierva Cove, a field of icebergs. First time seeing icebergs up close (well, first time seeing icebergs at all). The Tiffany blue colors aren’t just elements of Photoshop magic – they actually do exist. Interesting to learn about how these form, and how water erosion causes the cool shaping effects (most of them flip over and rotate at some point). Mariano, our zodiac driver, and Vladimir had a contest to see who could pick up the best specimen of dense ice – the kind of ice that’s dangerous to ships, since they’re nearly invisible in water and hard as a diamond.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove The expedition crew donned festive Santa hats for this excursion.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Floating ice and grey skies, as far as the eye can see.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove More icebergs.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove And more.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove If you squint, it almost looks like a dog’s face!

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Coated in fresh powder.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Still continuing to be a snowy Christmas.

2.45 PM: Surprise for the group: all the zodiacs gathered in the middle of the icebergs for hot chocolate and rum. Now that’s a good way to celebrate Christmas :)

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Rum! And hot chocolate. Match made in heaven.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Photo credit goes to Daniel. You can spot me and my parents, although I’m the only one slightly facing the camera.

3.30 PM: Return back to the ship in time for a lecture on Antarctic exploration from Adrian, who’s a professor at a Colorado university and also a first timer to Antarctica. He focuses on South American history and also teaches one class on Antarctic history, which fills up quickly every semester. Fun fact: he studied at Berkeley for one year as an exchange student. Go bears!

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Heading back to the loading dock.

6.30 PM: Recap of the day in the Panorama Lounge, where we talk about the next day’s plan and learn about the photo contest for the trip.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Our winning hunk of dense ice. Ain’t she a beaut.

7.00 PM: Dinner as usual, although with much smoother waters than the night before (thank god).

Christmas in Antarctica

Day 2: Christmas Dinner Yum.

Christmas in Antarctica

Day 2: Christmas Dinner The land staff in Punta Arenas sent a Christmas package to all of the expedition members on board, which was filled with chocolates and a few penguin hats.

9.00 PM: Documentary in the Panorama Lounge, which gives me time to finish logging the rest of Peru and the beginning of our Antarctica trip. Being the old fashioned person I am, I write everything in a paperback Moleskine (vs. typing it out on my netbook). Orca sighting off the side of the ship – everyone rushes outside to take photos.

Christmas in Antarctica

Day 2: Christmas Orcas Killer whale!

Christmas in Antarctica

Day 2: Christmas Orcas There was also a baby swimming alongside this one, but it was camera shy.

10.00 PM: Documentary ends and random elevator music starts playing in the lounge. The Titanic theme song comes on – clearly we need a new DJ. An expedition crew members plugs in his iPod and Stereo Love starts playing instead. Much better.

11.45 PM: After a long day, finally head to bed. Still getting used to the fact that it looks like midday outside.

Continue Reading

Day 1: Ardley Island

11.30 AM: Lunch is served buffet-style in the dining room, which is right down the hall from our room (score). After lunch, we set off for another landing to see Gentoo penguins on Ardley Island, where there isn’t much (any, actually) snow.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Christmas Eve lunch Mm, delicious.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island Surprisingly large amount of green going on behind me

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island Gentoo penguins cover most of the island. And to think I was ever worried about a lack of penguin sightings.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island More gentoo penguins and a crabeater seal in the distance.

Crabeater seal on Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island “What u lookin at.”

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island Poor penguin :(

We learn two things from our first experience with penguins:

  1. They’re just as cute as I’ve always imagined.
  2. Guano smells like crap, literally. Unfortunately, my backpack continues to carry the scent of guano even when we’re back on the ship.

Additionally, the crew teaches us the proper way to walk in a single-file line when on-shore (I feel like I’m in elementary school again), so as not to disturb/destroy the wildlife.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island All the smart penguins are running away from us.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Ardley Island Daniel anchoring the Zodiac to start taking us back to the ship (you can see the emergency chests in front of us).

4.00 PM: The first of many lectures aboard the Ocean Nova. Miguel teaches us about the many different penguins of the Antarctic. Unfortunately, we won’t be seeing any emperor or king penguins, as they live way inland, but we’ll still get to see a nice variety of smaller penguins on our journey.

7.30 PM: First dinner on board! Very festive, like lunch, since it’s Christmas Eve.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Christmas Eve Christmas Eve dinner!

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Christmas Eve Last minute dinner preparations.

Ardley Island, Antarctica

Day 1: Christmas Eve First of many dishes.

Christmas Eve dinner on the Ocean Nova

Day 1: Christmas Eve Mom and Dad in their festive outfits at dinner

The ship begins its travel through the Bransfield Straight, which has some… wavy waters, to put it mildly. Noticed during dinner that one by one, people were disappearing to their rooms. Eventually departed after the main course. Note to self: When one of the excursion leaders “suggests” that people take motion sickness medication… it’s probably best to take heed. Thank god we flew to Antarctica instead of crossing the Drake Passage, or the Drake Shake.

Continue Reading