Day 4: Paradise Bay

8:30 AM: After breakfast, we headed out to Paradise Bay – it was a slightly overcast day, but the views were gorgeous regardless. Vlad was our Zodiac driver and navigated us through the still, calm waters of the bay. We drifted up close to some amazing glaciers, from which chunks of ice occasionally broke off with a resounding crash.

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay

As we waited and camped out in front of one particular glacier, Vlad regaled us with stories of previous trips and the work he’s done in the Arctic, along with his photography exhibitions in Russia. The photos on his CD were gathered from a span of 2 to 3 years and quite impressive. Photos that were particularly interesting to us were those of fur seals and king penguins, which we didn’t see on this trip (another reason to come back, right?). He also has exhibitions back home in Moscow, where he displays photos he’s taken on his Antarctic and Arctic journeys. He mentioned that one of his favorite aspects of taking wildlife photos is the fact that animals never complain about taking bad photos – absolutely true!

Paradise Bay

After waiting for about 10 minutes, we finally saw ice break off and fall into the water, causing miniature tidal waves that shook the Zodiac. Even before the ice broke off, every now and then you could hear the thundering cracks from within the glacier, with no other noises disturbing the silence and still water. You could also see the clear reflections of the surrounding mountains in the water, until our Zodiac trail disturbed them.

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay

Paradise Bay

After Vlad’s tales about Arctic trips to the North Pole, we were all convinced that a trip up north would be added to our future goals. His favorite photo: a photo of the expedition leader eating BBQ in the foreground, with a polar bear eating a seal in the background. Quark Expeditions also offers trips to the North Pole once a year, where you cruise on a nuclear powered icebreaker. Sounds like an adventure, all right.

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Day 3: Dorian Bay

10.30 AM: Once again, there were many gentoo penguins, but we were able to get a closer look at them. Dorian Bay was definitely the most pristine backdrop we’ve visited so far, with the ships in the calm bay and all the surrounding snowcaps and hills. The weather was mild, also – I actually worked up a sweat when all bundled up.

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Andre exploring and laying out the safe paths for us

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Cloudy shot of me staking my Antarctic claim

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Nesting gentoo penguins near an old antennae

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Dirty penguin waddling to take a bath in the ocean

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Tired penguin is tired

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Clean penguins waddling on the penguin highway, back to the nests

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay A pair of albatross, hanging out near the penguins

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Nesting penguins be nesting

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay Cake-like glacier across the bay

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay How miniature we look against the backdrop of untouched mountains

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay One of the Zodiacs heading back early to the ship

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay And taking a little tour of the icebergs

Dorian Bay

Day 3: Dorian Bay And back to the ship we go

11.30 AM: Back to the ship, just in time for lunch. We sat with Adrian and Vladimir, who told us more about their experience with Antarctica and clarified everyone’s role on the expedition team. Although Adrian (Professor Adrian) studied Antarctica history for years, this was his first time visiting the continent. It must definitely be worth it to go as part of an expedition crew rather than copping out and joining a tourist group. Vladimir, on the other hand, has been working the longest in the field with 13 years of Antarctic journeying.

We hear that we’re soon going to attempt to cross the Lemaire Channel, which is also known as “Kodak Gap” for its sweeping, scenic views.

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Day 2: Cierva Cove Christmas

6.45 AM: Wake up for an early landing, feeling much better than the night before. Blearily bundle up and head out to the plank area while maintaining a hangover-like haze. Notice that only about 35 people in our group make it up this morning (all landings are technically optional). The blast of cold air from the plank opening is definitely refreshing.

8.00 AM: First zodiac out to Mikkelson Harbor, which is covered in snow and has a sizable population of penguins and seals. Big, fat snowflakes are falling – kind of a tough standard to beat – first snow in Antarctica, and my first time walking on real snow (I know, I’ve been deprived). Despite the fact that snowflakes sting like mad when they’re flying into your face at 30 mph, I still haven’t become disenchanted yet. Take only a few pictures, since my camera is completely unprotected from the elements. Definitely starting to look more like an expedition in the photos, with everyone geared up, little flags marking safe zones, and stormy grey clouds as the backdrop.

Penguins at Mikkelson Harbor

Day 2: Mikkelson Harbor The only non-soggy shot I took on this landing. The big, fat snowflakes quickly turned into big, fat raindrops. No bueno for my unprotected camera.

On board the Ocean Nova

Day 2: Mikkelson Harbor Soggy me checking to make sure my camera hasn’t died. Steam radiators = awesome for quickly drying gloves and scarves.

On board the Ocean Nova

Day 2: Mikkelson Harbor Mom and I had the handicap room, which meant we scored an extra large bathroom.

On board the Ocean Nova

Day 2: Mikkelson Harbor Hanging up our pants, jackets and life jackets to dry.

9.30 AM: Quick brunch – don’t want to eat too much. Goal = not gaining 20 lbs from this trip.

11.30 AM: Lecture about… something. Okay, yeah this was a useful log.

1.00 PM: Zodiac cruising around Cierva Cove, a field of icebergs. First time seeing icebergs up close (well, first time seeing icebergs at all). The Tiffany blue colors aren’t just elements of Photoshop magic – they actually do exist. Interesting to learn about how these form, and how water erosion causes the cool shaping effects (most of them flip over and rotate at some point). Mariano, our zodiac driver, and Vladimir had a contest to see who could pick up the best specimen of dense ice – the kind of ice that’s dangerous to ships, since they’re nearly invisible in water and hard as a diamond.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove The expedition crew donned festive Santa hats for this excursion.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Floating ice and grey skies, as far as the eye can see.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove More icebergs.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove And more.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove If you squint, it almost looks like a dog’s face!

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Coated in fresh powder.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Still continuing to be a snowy Christmas.

2.45 PM: Surprise for the group: all the zodiacs gathered in the middle of the icebergs for hot chocolate and rum. Now that’s a good way to celebrate Christmas :)

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Rum! And hot chocolate. Match made in heaven.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Photo credit goes to Daniel. You can spot me and my parents, although I’m the only one slightly facing the camera.

3.30 PM: Return back to the ship in time for a lecture on Antarctic exploration from Adrian, who’s a professor at a Colorado university and also a first timer to Antarctica. He focuses on South American history and also teaches one class on Antarctic history, which fills up quickly every semester. Fun fact: he studied at Berkeley for one year as an exchange student. Go bears!

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Heading back to the loading dock.

6.30 PM: Recap of the day in the Panorama Lounge, where we talk about the next day’s plan and learn about the photo contest for the trip.

Icebergs at Cierva Cove

Day 2: Cierva Cove Our winning hunk of dense ice. Ain’t she a beaut.

7.00 PM: Dinner as usual, although with much smoother waters than the night before (thank god).

Christmas in Antarctica

Day 2: Christmas Dinner Yum.

Christmas in Antarctica

Day 2: Christmas Dinner The land staff in Punta Arenas sent a Christmas package to all of the expedition members on board, which was filled with chocolates and a few penguin hats.

9.00 PM: Documentary in the Panorama Lounge, which gives me time to finish logging the rest of Peru and the beginning of our Antarctica trip. Being the old fashioned person I am, I write everything in a paperback Moleskine (vs. typing it out on my netbook). Orca sighting off the side of the ship – everyone rushes outside to take photos.

Christmas in Antarctica

Day 2: Christmas Orcas Killer whale!

Christmas in Antarctica

Day 2: Christmas Orcas There was also a baby swimming alongside this one, but it was camera shy.

10.00 PM: Documentary ends and random elevator music starts playing in the lounge. The Titanic theme song comes on – clearly we need a new DJ. An expedition crew members plugs in his iPod and Stereo Love starts playing instead. Much better.

11.45 PM: After a long day, finally head to bed. Still getting used to the fact that it looks like midday outside.

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